Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 17 of 17

Thread: is 8.5 too low for daily driven?

  1. #11
    Inactive Member Bryan-96'GSR's Avatar
    Join Date
    August 7th, 1999
    Posts
    59
    Follows
    0
    Following
    0
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quoted
    0 Post(s)

    Post

    You yourself will not be able to put in the sleeves.. I would only suggest having a engine builder do this.. which will cost around 900$, Bensons sells sleeves for the b18..

    bryan

  2. #12
    Inactive Member Bryan-96'GSR's Avatar
    Join Date
    August 7th, 1999
    Posts
    59
    Follows
    0
    Following
    0
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quoted
    0 Post(s)

    Post

    Think of it this way.. slower piston speeds = less wear on rings = less ring failure = able to move ring package up safely. Over all happier engine...

    Bryan

  3. #13
    Inactive Member plumvtec's Avatar
    Join Date
    March 12th, 1999
    Posts
    109
    Follows
    0
    Following
    0
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quoted
    0 Post(s)

    Lightbulb

    Chrysler used a 8.5:1 in their production turbo cars. There is nothing wrong with that compression ratio.

    You can run at high boost and off boost gas mileage will be very good.

    If you are getting custom slugs with that compression, I would get some that have clearances for the valves in case the timing belt breaks. This way you won't trash the valves.

    ------------------
    '96 JR6 GSR Sedan
    '93 Honda CBR 900RR
    -------------------------
    4Sale:New Holley 255 fuel pump kit
    #12-906 (Integra/civic)
    $200 shipped COD



    [This message has been edited by plumvtec (edited February 18, 2000).]

  4. #14
    Inactive Member trbogsr's Avatar
    Join Date
    December 26th, 1999
    Posts
    15
    Follows
    0
    Following
    0
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quoted
    0 Post(s)

    Post

    has anyone here dealt with bensons? how reliable are they and is their work warrantied? I just dont want the engine to fail on me down the road. and if re-sleeving the block will help prevent this then i am willing to pay the money. also, has anyone heard of eagle rods? i found out about them today and they are cheap, but i am weary of them because i havent heard much about them. also how big of a fuel pump will i need to run a max boost of 17psi? how big of injectors?

  5. #15
    Inactive Member vtec4gs's Avatar
    Join Date
    March 24th, 1999
    Posts
    87
    Follows
    0
    Following
    0
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quoted
    0 Post(s)

    Lightbulb

    a better rod ratio is always better, becaue there is less pistons speeds at high RPM. This will not necessarily make the engine more reliable, it jsut helps. For simplicity sake, a good rebuild for 10-15psi at track and 8-10psi on street is a set of forged pistons, stronger rods (with accompanying bolts), stronger head studs, stronger (i.e. S/S exhasut valves), adequate engine managment to NOT go aggressive with ign timing (as stock Honda tables tend to be because it was designed for N/A), adequate fuel supply (so bigger injectors and fuel pump equipped to supply the injectors) and stiffer valvesprings.

    The stock Honda sleeves are strong enough to withstand the boost, many tuners bosot higher than 24psi wiht the stock sleeves and block guard (unwelded, i.e. NuFormz).

    The Blockguard IS highly recommended and is only needed to hold the open deck of the block together. Obviously it would be better to utilize a more solid deck but NOT necessary. The block guard does not cause overheating of the cooling system, nor does it cause stress marks at the top of the inner cylinder walls.

    When all is said and doen, you're lookign at $10K to get a very reliable turbo car; this price not including the price of the block.


    Greg-

  6. #16
    DefAcura
    Guest DefAcura's Avatar

    Question

    How does changing your rod:stroke ratio reduce piston velocity? Reducing your stroke will reduce piston velocity. Reducing your rod:stroke ratio will reduce sidewall loading and change the dynamics of your internal components(more dwell time etc.).

    If you have 1797cc displacement with a 81mm bore and 87.2mm(?) stroke your piston velocity will be the same at any given engine RPM with a 1.58 rod/stroke ratio or a 1.75 rod/stroke ratio. If you keep the same displacement without changing bore and stroke sizes the only way to increase the rod/stroke ratio will be to get a longer rod. The angle the rod makes with the piston will be more perpendicular with a better rod/stroke ratio, but the piston is still moving that 87.2mm every stroke at the same rate(RPM) regardless of the rod length.

    Maybe you guys are confusing how the B16A has much better piston velocities at high RPMs and a near optimum 1.74 rod/stroke ratio. The rod/stroke ratio isn't responsible for the lower piston velocities, it's the shorter stroke the engine uses.

    Or am I missing something here?

  7. #17
    Senior Hostboard Member rjaffey's Avatar
    Join Date
    February 16th, 1999
    Posts
    764
    Follows
    0
    Following
    0
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quoted
    0 Post(s)

    Post

    The average piston speed is determined by the stroke and RPM. However, the maximum piston speed increases as the rod/stroke ratio decreases.

    [This message has been edited by rjaffey (edited February 19, 2000).]

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •